*from Pinoy Mountaineer

Mt. Purgatory Traverse has a strange name but that’s really the name of the mountain. The Americans are the ones naming the mountain so we will leave it as is. I first hear the name Mt. Purgatory from a friend of mine. The reason why she mentions it because I am so much impressed with the pine forest of Mt. Ugo. She also tells me that Mt. Purgatory Traverse has lots of it and she’s right.

As per our guide, we are going to have six mountains. Only three peaks are being featured in the traverse. From the jump-off point, the first peak is Mt. Pack, second is Mt. Purgatory and third is Mt. Komkompol. The other mountains are Mt. Mangagew, Mt. Bakian and Mt. Tangbaw.

The trail is well established. There are portions of it that’s also a Barangay road. It is almost 8km from the Brgy. Japas (jump-off) going to the summit of Mt. Pack. By the way, Mt. Pack is named after Governor Pack. The trail is a mix of pine and mossy forests and we know that the Cordilleras are home to pine trees, so expect its abundance in Purgatory Traverse. Mossy forest is also impressive in all three mountains. Hence, it is never boring when hiking with these marvels.

While the three mountains feature their mossy forest, the other mountains boasts on pine forest too. Along the trail are different vegetations. Some also do vegetable farming in open areas.

Doing the Purgatory Traverse, there is an option for you to bring your tents or just pay for home stays at Bakian or Tangbaw. In addition, when hiring porters, they will not literally climb with you like that of other mountains. They will just ride it on their motorcycles and take it directly to the home stay. You might as well bear in mind that you will need to carry yourself all those stuffs you need on the trail.

Itinerary

March 10, 2017

11:00pm – Departure to Baguio City

March 11, 2017

04:00am – Arrival at Victory Liner, Baguio City

05:30am – Departure for Brgy. Japas via rented jeepney; jump-off point

07:30am – Breakfast stop-over, Pinkanju Restaurant

08:00am – Arrival at Brgy. Japas

08:45am – Start trek

09:45am – Arrival at Mt. Mangagew

11:30am – Lunch break at the last water source before Mt. Pack

12:00nn – Resume trek

02:00pm – Arrival at the summit of Mt. Pack, short rest and photo ops

04:00pm – Arrival at Mt. Purgatory, short rest and photo ops

05:30pm – Arrival at Mt. Bakian Home Stay

07:00pm – Dinner

08:00pm – Socials

10:00pm – Lights Off

March 12, 2017

05:00am – Wake-up call, prepare for today’s trek, breakfast

07:20am – Move out from Home Stay

07:50am – Arrival at Mt. Tangbaw campsite

08:00am – Trek to Mt. Komkompol, leave things at Mt. Tangbaw campsite

09:00am – Arrival at Mt. Komkompol Viewpoint, short rest and photo ops

10:30am – Back at Mt. Tangbaw, early lunch (pancit canton)

11:30am – Hike down to Brgy Karao

02:00pm – Arrival at Brgy. Karao

03:00pm – Logout at Bokod Municipal Hall

07:00pm – Arrival at Victory Liner, Baguio City

11:00pm – Departure to Manila

March 13, 2017

04:00am – Arrival in Manila

I am really looking forward to climb Mt. Purgatory until a friend of mine, Sir Ben, organizes such. When I receive an invite, no hesitations at all, I immediately confirm to the invitation. I barely know everyone in the group, that is practically what happens in an organized climb: new faces, new acquaintances and new friends.

We are actually 18 in the group: 16 adults, a 9-year old kid and a 9 months old infant. Yes, a 9-month old infant. His name is Kion, the son of Sir Ben and Carlyn. Upon departure from Manila, we are divided into 2 groups. One group leaving from Victory Pasay and the other group at Victory Cubao. Pasay group leaves at 10pm while we, at Cubao, leave an hour later. We arrive Victory Liner Terminal in Baguio City almost the same time.

Arriving Baguio, we still have time to double check on things that we should bring. While waiting for our rented jeepney, we check some things at a nearby 711 store. At 5:30am, we leave the terminal, heading our way to Brgy, Japas, the jump-off point. Along the way, we have a short breakfast stopover at Pinkanju Restaurant. We are able to buy our packed lunch too.

Resuming our trip, we try sitting at the top load of the jeepney to savor the wonderful view around us. Good thing we also have the chance to do it for us to catch the picturesque view of the Ambuklao Dam along the way. Noting the twists and turns of the road, we are also extra careful not to fall from the jeepney. We are enjoying the view for 30 minutes before transferring back inside the jeepney. At 8am, we are at the jump-off already.

Our guide is already at the jump-off also waiting for us. Hence, we quickly fix ourselves upon arrival. Those who have things not needed along the trail may want to pay for porter. Amazingly, the porters are not going to walk with us, they are going to ferry our things using their motorcycle and take them to our home stay. At 8:45am, we officially start our trek.

The first part of the trek is a concrete road going up the mountain and I am expecting it to be like that for only few meters. I am right. Thinking of what the mountain has to offer, it is really evident to have pine trees along the way. From the starting point, pines are abundantly growing along the slopes while its shade also protects us from direct sunlight.

Continuing our climb, we reach the school at Mt. Mangagew after an hour. Now we are walking along a bigger dirt road. Thank God it’s dry, just as I imagine being muddy when soaked in rain. There is also one beautiful panoramic viewpoint at one farm lot. We literally see our campsite area, a red roof from afar at one side of the mountain.

While walking, we also have a sip at an ice candy we bought along the way. The road is a mix of a rolling hills wherein we experience downwards, flat, easy assault and a very steep one. Now that it is almost mid-day, the sun is striking and I have been using my umbrella since we arrive at Mt. Mangagew School. Just with an easy walking, we arrive at the last water source in the area, our venue for our lunch too.

At 12nn, we resume our trek. Again, now climbing a single pile towards the mountain, we arrive at another dirt road again. As part of the trail, we are going to have a chill walk towards the junction to Mt. Pack. The road is also winding along the side of the mountain with views of the rest of the cordilleras. As per our guide, Mt. Ugo is visible from there.

While having a chill hike along the dirt road, I have the chance to take some photos. Now, the mountain is starting to showcase its mossy forest. Seems like pines are no longer present on the mountain we are walking. This also indicates that we are nearing the summit of Mt. Pack. As a result, we reach the junction to Mt. Pack after few minutes. Now, we are done with the dirt road and will walk the trail inside the mossy forest.

The mossy forest is so impressive. I can’t help myself but fascinate on the delicate plants along the way. Instead of worrying on reaching the summit faster, I feast my eyes on the magnificent floras. Enjoying much of the scenery, I didn’t notice that I am already at the summit. We also find several groups ahead of us at the summit. They are already done taking photos at the marker of Mt. Pack and even at the viewpoint on one side of it. By the way, Mt. Pack is one of the higher mountains in the Purgatory Traverse.

Only short stay for us at the summit of Mt. Pack, we proceed to Mt. Purgatory. By the way, there is a marker saying that it’s 2.93km to Mt. Purgatory. Our guide also confirms that it’s roughly that distance. The trail is still a mossy forest and one good thing, it’s downwards.

At 4pm, we arrive at the marker of Mt. Purgatory. We again find the first group resting at one area. Since it’s already 4pm, it’s now getting cold. This is where Mt. Purgatory gets its name. The Americans name it like that because it maybe similar to that of a purgatory. We own the place now since the other group left already. One by one, we pose at the marker. We also have group photos before finally resuming our trek few minutes later.

The trail from Mt. Purgatory is again nestled inside a mossy forest. I am still in awe seeing various species of plants growing in the wild. The trail is also established, evident of frequent hiking activities in the area. Good thing, the ecosystem is preserved.

Elvin and I are walking faster together with Sir Ben. We are thinking of arriving at our home stay at night. Thank goodness that the trail is also going downwards that we just walk freely exerting little efforts only. The approach to Bakian community is a bit of easy assault but hey, we are already few meters away from our home stay. Finally arriving at exactly 5:30pm, we immediately choose our space at the assigned room to our group. They also provide blankets for all of us. While waiting for the others to arrive, we have a chance to freshen up ourselves. A quick one-fourth bath will do just to take away the sweat. Oh by the way, the water is freezing cold.

At 7pm, dinner is served. We have tinolang manok and unli-rice to supplement our tiring hike for the day. Bon-fire is also lit near us and then they transfer it inside the vacant house. That’s supposed to be our venue for the socials yet we cannot stand the smoke that’s hitting our eyes. Since our room is quite bigger, we have our socials there instead. Drinks are also served though not compulsory. As part of Sir Ben’s tradition, he has some raffle items while having our socials. We get to know each other; we also share some mountaineering experiences (best and worst). When done, we formally call it a day at 10pm.

As we agree on the wake up call at 5am, we still want to sleep when alarm starts to ring. Unlimited coffee is ready at the table outside our room. While sipping Kapeng Barako, we are again packing our things and prepare for the rest of the hike. At 6am, breakfast is ready. Corned beef and egg best matches for a sumptuous breakfast. Not wasting time, we also start digging into our food while it’s still hot. Finally, we are all done at 7am and about to leave our home stay in few minutes.

We resume our trek to Mt. Tangbaw at 7:20am. At first, we are voting on going to Mt. Komkompol or not. I just tell them that we are already there so might as well not miss the opportunity of seeing the highest mountain of the Purgatory Traverse. The trail from Mt. Bakian to the campsite at Mt. Tangbaw is also pine forest. It is such a nice feeling walking along these beauties.

At Mt. Tangbaw campsite, we leave our things and finally decide to trek to Mt. Komkompol. We are also doing back trail, shorter way, though there is another longer way going to Brgy. Ekip.

The start of the trail is also a 60 degrees climb up the hill at Mt. Tangbaw. Upon reaching the top, it’s flat already with views of the highest and second highest mountains in Luzon, Mt. Pulag and Mt. Timbak, respectively. Thanks to the early morning good weather that we catch the view of the rest of the Cordilleras.

Short trail also consists of pine forest and the rest are again mossy forest in going to Mt. Komkompol viewpoint. The mossy forest feature is similar to that of Mt. Pack and Mt. Purgatory. The trail is established, though there are few manageable assaults, we still manage to enjoy the hike. Reaching the marker of Mt. Komkompol, we can’t help but immediately pose to it. We also own the place for now so we can do whatever we want. At the viewpoint, nearest mountain is Mt. Salingsingan, not yet open for exploration. For sure it will offer another set of beautiful ecosystem.

The viewpoint of Mt. Komkompol is fronting Mt. Pulag also. It is clearly seen on a bright sunny day. Amazing it is, we don’t have the gift of sea of clouds yet a perfect clearing in front of us. Our guide also takes us to another spot at the other side of the mountain where we can see at least 270 degrees the surrounding mountains.

From that viewpoint, we also known that we are not at the summit of Mt. Komkompol. We are several meters down, I don’t know why but that’s it. With that location, Mt. Pack is seen from afar. I have seen Mt. Pack like floating on the clouds, so impressive. We all feast ourselves on the view. There is one part from afar having sea of clouds. As per resident of Mt. Tangbaw, if we are there earlier, we surely witness sea of clouds at Mt. Komkompol. It worthy to take note the next time we climb.

Taking few minutes of having selfies, groupfies and solo photos, we walk back to Mt. Tangbaw. This time, we are again faster as most of the trail is downwards. Arriving at Mt. Tangbaw campsite at 10:30am, we also decide to have an early lunch then. Pancit canton will do to save us from hunger while walking towards Brgy. Karao. When done, we resume our trek.

Finally, the trail is all going downwards. Since we are taking the short cut, the trail we are walking is a small road for single motorcycles. It is also a long walk under the pine trees. So refreshing to be walking along the pine forest. This time, a bit relax since we are going down. Some portion of the road is concrete while others are just dirt roads. On the other hand, one disadvantage of continuously walking downwards, my knees are shaking and my feet starts to sore. Besides, just a bit of sacrifice to reach the exit point. Finally, at 2pm we are at the exit point, a cold ice candy is again waiting for us.

Logging out at Bokod Municipal Hall at 3pm, we are ready to leave for Baguio. However, we make a stopover again at Pinkanju to freshen up and eat our late lunch or maybe an early dinner.

Overall, the climb is so worth the effort. It is really true that Mt. Purgatory Traverse offers a stunning pine forest landscape. Its mossy forest too is spectacular. The trail is just fine; we can be able to enjoy the climb while feasting ourselves on the view. If an invite to climb again, I will still say YES. I am also recommending this to everyone who wants to experience a mix of chill and view. Thanks to Sir Ben for organizing this event. Thank to my new friends I’ve meet in this climb. To more climbs!!!

With me:

1. Ruben Fernandez (organizer)
2. Carlyn Fernadez
3. Aki Fernandez (9 years old)
4. Kion Fernandez (9 months old)
5. Elvin Garcia
6. Janice Lim
7. Gilbert Ian Lopez
8. Raise Ann Malabanan
9. Boyet Panisan
10. Magnolia Mejia
11. Abee Jero
12. Mike Caisip
13. Kaye Balugay
14. Cel Rigaton
15. Jayson Fernandez
16. Joshua Fernandez
17. ???

Climb date: March 11-12, 2017